An ounce of prevention …

Keep your greenhouses in good operating condition with preventive maintenance.

Maintenance should include cleaning exhaust and HAF fans to improve airflow and efficiency.
Photos: John Bartok

A good maintenance program anticipates problems and takes action to minimize their occurrence. Maintenance should include a thorough inspection and any corrective action needed to keep the structures and equipment in good operating condition. Cleaning and tightening up the greenhouse can save money and increase energy efficiency. The following checklist identifies the major areas:

Greenhouse frame

  • Inspect diagonal frame bracing to see that it is in place and tight. This bracing is important to prevent racking of the frame and the loosening of the glazing from wind and snow loading.
  • Tighten collar tie and truss bolts. These loosen from expansion and contraction due to heat and movement of the structure in the wind.
  • Inspect the gutters. Clean leaves and debris from gutters and downspouts. Caulk any joints that may be leaking water with a gutter caulk. Inspect for rust. Wire brush and coat these areas with a cold galvanizing spray or asphalt coating.

Glazing

Light is usually the limiting factor in plant growth during the winter. The glazing should be clean.

  • Repair any small holes or tears in the poly cover with a polyethylene tape or Poly Patch. If the poly has stretched or is loose, it may have to be tightened by removing the locking inserts and pulling the plastic taut. Inspect for soundness at the attachment edge. Replace plastic if it has exceeded its warranty life. Clean and inspect the inflation blower. Check the inflation pressure. It should be about ¼-inch water static pressure or about the same as an inflated balloon. Too much pressure will stretch the plastic and increase the space between the layers. Too little pressure will allow the plastic to ripple in the wind and tear where it is attached.
  • Polycarbonate and acrylic panels should be washed with a mild detergent and lukewarm water to remove dirt, smog and shading compound. Check to see that the attachment extrusions are tight.
  • For glass covered greenhouses, check for cracked panes and for barcaps that may have become loose. Remove spray-on shading with a cleaning compound or a shade remover.

Energy/shade/blackout screens

  • Tighten support monofilament and cables using a ratchet tightener.
  • Repair or replace motorized shade/energy screen system material. Leading edge and side seals should be tight to prevent heat from escaping overhead.
  • Inspect for loose drive fittings and secure connections. Check to see that the limit switches are working properly.
A well-marked electric panel can prevent errors in setting environment controls.

Vents and louvers

These allow considerable heat to escape during the winter if they do not close tight.

  • Roof and sidewall vents need to be adjusted so that they close even and tight. This involves lubricating bearings, rack and pinions, vent arm hinge points and checking fluid in gearbox drives. In houses with vents that don’t close tight, adding weather stripping may be the only way to stop excess heat loss.
  • Maximum and minimum vent position limit switches should be checked to see that they will stop vent travel at the correct position.

Fans and shutters

  • With the power turned off, inspect and clean the fan blades, motor and shutter. Check that the blade is not loose on the shaft.
  • Check the fan belt for wear. The belt should ride at the top of the “V” groove. Adjust the belt to achieve ½-inch to ¾-inch deflection in the center between the pulleys.
  • Lubricate the shutter hinge points so that they close tight. A 48-inch shutter that fails to close properly leaving 1-inch gaps allows 23,000 Btu/hr of heat to escape.
  • Clean evaporative cooling pads and tanks. Replace deteriorated pads.
  • Service horizontal air flow (HAF) fans by cleaning the blades and guards. Oil bearings if they are not sealed.

Heating systems

  • Before the heating season begins, have all equipment serviced.
  • On oil fired units, this should include replacing the fuel filter and nozzle, cleaning ignition mechanism, and valve.
  • On gas fired units, clean burner ports and orifices, pilot burner and air slots.
  • Inspect fuel supply piping for leaks.
  • Check limit controls including high heat and fan or blower operation and the barometric draft control in the flue pipe. On boilers, check the safety pressure relief valves.
  • Have a combustion test done on the heating unit to check efficiency, draft and smoke level.
  • Inspect heat exchangers for leaks and corrosion and clean heat exchanger surfaces including vacuuming and wire brushing radiators and fin pipes.
  • Be sure that flue connections are tight and weather cap is in place.
  • Check the fuel supply and operation of back-up heaters.

Thermostats and sensors

  • Check the accuracy of all thermostats and sensors by using an ice bath or an accurate laboratory thermometer.
  • Clean sensor coil with compressed air. Use a contact cleaner or draw a piece of paper through exposed contacts.
  • Check that all wire connections are tight and not broken.
  • Run a test mode on the temperature alarm system to see that it is operating properly.
  • Test-run the back-up generator and check its fuel supply.

Assigning an employee to do routine maintenance will avoid many annoying problems and save on the heating bill. Using the above checklist as a guide to track preventive maintenance can make this job easier. To save time, set up a file with the operating manuals and the procedures to follow.

John W. Bartok Jr. is an agricultural engineer, an emeritus extension professor at the University of Connecticut and a regular contributor to Greenhouse Management. He is an author, consultant and certified technical service provider doing greenhouse energy audits for USDA grant programs in New England. jbartok@rcn.com

February 2024
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